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Tech inspection
Carlos
post May 16 2010, 09:21 PM
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Hey guys. I did some searches but found nothing regarding tech inspections.

What exactly is checked? I know my rear pads on my V8 Fiero are almost gone (rear pads wear out twice as fast as front), my rear jounce bumpers are gone on the struts, and I have no oil leaks, and an unsecured EFI computer laying against the trunk wall with just some velcro holding it onto the carpet.

Just want to know what to expect so the car is up to snuff. All the other stuff on my car is up to snuff I'm sure, those were the only things I could think of that might be an issue.


Thanks,
Carlos


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'88 Fiero Formula - modified ZZ4 SBC
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handdoc
post May 16 2010, 09:31 PM
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Here's a copy of the tech sheet, stating what we look for:
http://www.2000transam.com/safetyinspection.pdf

I think you are good, as long as the ECU is not completely loose. Zip tie it, bolt it down, or something. Make sure the pads are not down to metal.


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Carlos
post May 16 2010, 09:46 PM
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Thanks, just what I needed. Look like this will get me to take care of those little things I've been procrastinating forever. I finally took care of an oil leak I had for years, now just the computer and maybe an extra two bolts on the battery tray in the trunk for some extra holding (it only has two 3/8's ones right now holding the tray to the trunk) and I should be good to go.


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Bill Browning
post May 16 2010, 10:02 PM
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Hi Carlos, You might want to bring a spare set of brake pads. Just so you can stop, going back home. Or even the second lap of practice. That WWII concrete has lots of traction and your tires and brake pads will show it. scare.gif He's showing the thrill of seeing the car in front slow for a corner and he doesn't. Just turn that round thing in your hands one way or another.


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Carlos
post May 16 2010, 10:13 PM
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That's what I got right now. I can just see the ECM bouncing around. hahaha




Time to put this awesome cockpit to good use.



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Carlos
post May 16 2010, 10:15 PM
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I have a feeling I'd have to really watch that "person in front braking", because my car, at maximum braking, the pedal just feels like it hit a solid wall and brakes never lock on dry pavement (no ABS), so the feeling is a little helpless when you are at it's limit and it won't brake any faster.


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handdoc
post May 17 2010, 07:39 AM
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You might also want to flush your brake lines and put fresh, high-quality brake fluid in it.
Like Bill said, CC is hard on brakes. Also consider upgrading to stainless steel brake lines, if you haven't done so already.
Hope to see ya out there soon.


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https://www.facebook.com/video/embed?video_...601783596502856
"World's worst 911 GT2 driver"-Top Gear Magazine
(http://www.topgear.co.za/videos/video-worl...911-gt2-driver/)

"Arm on the sill? One-handed corrections? At a F1 track? Really…"

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Carlos
post May 17 2010, 03:46 PM
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QUOTE (handdoc @ May 17 2010, 08:39 AM) *
You might also want to flush your brake lines and put fresh, high-quality brake fluid in it.
Like Bill said, CC is hard on brakes. Also consider upgrading to stainless steel brake lines, if you haven't done so already.
Hope to see ya out there soon.


Thanks for the tips. I'd have to say, done and done to your recommendations. I've ran fresh fluid since I got the car in 95 probably about 4-5 times, throughout all the repairs/upgrades I've done. The oil is a couple years old, but has no more than 2-3000 miles. I upgraded to stainless steel braided lines probably around 2000 or so. I replaced the piston seals in the rear calipers quite a few years ago because they were leaking oil all over the rotors (definitely not good), and since then the rear brakes are solid and work well.

Really the only things I've been wanted to do that I haven't is replace the tired ol' stock Monroe sensatrac mushy shocks with some Konis, and replace my 9.5 inch rotors with 13's. Those have been "in the plans" so to say for some time.

I keep forgetting I need a helmet. Any good place online that has a good variety? Open/closed face.... recommendations ???


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handdoc
post May 17 2010, 04:23 PM
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Open v/s closed is more personal choice than anything else, as long as you are driving a closed-cockpit car.
Buy a lightweight helmet, and you'll be more comfortable. Make sure you get a helmet with a Snell SA/K 2005 or newer rating.
Keep in mind that the current Snell standard SA/K 2005 will expire in 2012.

That means, if you get a SA/K 2005, it will be obsolete in 2012, and you'll need to buy a new one in 2 years.
Better to get the new standard SA/K 2010, available for sale on October 1, 2010.

Our region is pretty lenient on checking these standards, but some other tracks/venues are not so flexible.
Keep that in mind.


Here's the Snell SA/K 2010 release schedule:
http://www.smf.org/standards/sa/SA2010/sak...ver_5-18-09.htm




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https://www.facebook.com/video/embed?video_...601783596502856
"World's worst 911 GT2 driver"-Top Gear Magazine
(http://www.topgear.co.za/videos/video-worl...911-gt2-driver/)

"Arm on the sill? One-handed corrections? At a F1 track? Really…"

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Carlos
post May 21 2010, 10:39 PM
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QUOTE (handdoc @ May 17 2010, 08:39 AM) *
You might also want to flush your brake lines and put fresh, high-quality brake fluid in it.
Like Bill said, CC is hard on brakes. Also consider upgrading to stainless steel brake lines, if you haven't done so already.
Hope to see ya out there soon.


Any "special" brake fluid anyone uses that isn't available at stores. Or replace my DOT 3 with DOT 4 of any good brand name stuff?


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handdoc
post May 22 2010, 07:25 AM
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The best brake fluid out there is Castrol SRF. Unfortunately, it's priced accordingly (around $75/liter).
It has a patented silicon ester formulation that is less hygroscopic than conventional brake fluids.
This is one area where I don't try to save money, so I go with the best.

Other great options:

Ate super blue ($12/liter)
Brembo LCF 600 ($20/half-liter)
Motul RBF 600 ($20/half-liter)
Wilwood EXP 600 ($20/half-liter)

These all exceed DOT 4 specs.

Remember that all brake fluids are hygroscopic (attract moisture), so flush regularly. Also it's best to consider buying smaller vials, so you can discard whatever fluid is left in there. If you save it once opened, it will start to collect moisture and will be "contaminated", thus reducing it's effectiveness.

Some guys over at rennlist are so compulsive that they flush after each and every DE or racing event. That might be overkill. I flush every 3-4 months or so.
Also plan on a rotor budget. I plan on changing mine once per season. Remember, braking is the single most important activity you'll be doing, by far.


--------------------

https://www.facebook.com/video/embed?video_...601783596502856
"World's worst 911 GT2 driver"-Top Gear Magazine
(http://www.topgear.co.za/videos/video-worl...911-gt2-driver/)

"Arm on the sill? One-handed corrections? At a F1 track? Really…"

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Carlos
post May 22 2010, 11:43 AM
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QUOTE (handdoc @ May 22 2010, 08:25 AM) *
The best brake fluid out there is Castrol SRF. Unfortunately, it's priced accordingly (around $75/liter).
It has a patented silicon ester formulation that is less hygroscopic than conventional brake fluids.
This is one area where I don't try to save money, so I go with the best.

Other great options:

Ate super blue ($12/liter)
Brembo LCF 600 ($20/half-liter)
Motul RBF 600 ($20/half-liter)
Wilwood EXP 600 ($20/half-liter)

These all exceed DOT 4 specs.

Remember that all brake fluids are hygroscopic (attract moisture), so flush regularly. Also it's best to consider buying smaller vials, so you can discard whatever fluid is left in there. If you save it once opened, it will start to collect moisture and will be "contaminated", thus reducing it's effectiveness.

Some guys over at rennlist are so compulsive that they flush after each and every DE or racing event. That might be overkill. I flush every 3-4 months or so.
Also plan on a rotor budget. I plan on changing mine once per season. Remember, braking is the single most important activity you'll be doing, by far.


Thanks for the tip.... yeah, brake fluid is much like fuel with ethanol. I know that's a big issue in the boating community elsewhere, were are lucky here in the valley few gasoline stations use ethanol. Sucks up water... can't be good at all.

I had read about some of those fluids, thanks for the tips. I'm a real believer in overkill is better than being cheap and saving money where it counts so I'll probably stay away from the regular stuff. Especially since I don't drive the car more than 1-2 times a week, most of the time I spend using it would probably be spent at the track, so it'll be worth my while to do things right.


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B3RN3R
post May 23 2010, 08:42 PM
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i use super blue noticable improvement over stock
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Z06MEISTER
post May 23 2010, 09:02 PM
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I've run Motul RBF 600 on these cars over the years with stock or oversize brake kits:

95 S14
05 S2K
03 Z06

Motul has done good by me.

Just noticed that my cars have had a three alpha/numeric designation.
Guess my next track car will be a C6R - don't wake me up....


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handdoc
post May 23 2010, 09:06 PM
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Why not upgrade to a GT3?


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https://www.facebook.com/video/embed?video_...601783596502856
"World's worst 911 GT2 driver"-Top Gear Magazine
(http://www.topgear.co.za/videos/video-worl...911-gt2-driver/)

"Arm on the sill? One-handed corrections? At a F1 track? Really…"

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Z06MEISTER
post May 23 2010, 10:41 PM
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QUOTE (handdoc @ May 23 2010, 09:06 PM) *
Why not upgrade to a GT3?


More than likely the next logical step in the track car continuum.

For now, continue to hone the skill sets and monitor depreciation....


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You are one with your machine when driving at the "Limit"....
Track Toy: 2013 Camaro ZL1
PCA HPDE Instructor
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